Bankroll tool

Poker Bankroll Calculator

How many buy-ins do you actually need? Enter your win rate, how much the game swings and the chance of going broke you will accept, for the bankroll that risk of ruin demands — which stakes it covers, and where the move-up and move-down lines sit.

Your game

Risk of ruin you accept

The usual recommendation for somebody serious about the game but not living on it.

Bankroll you hold

Bankroll needed

Buy-ins
27
round up to 28
Big blinds
2,704
the same answer
At a risk of
5.0%
if you never move down

Where it comes from: the bankroll is the square of the standard deviation (95 bb/100) times minus the natural log of the target risk, divided by twice the win rate (5 bb/100). Double the win rate and the requirement halves exactly; a game with 40% more variance needs about twice the roll, because the deviation is squared.

What $2,000 means right now

Highest stake it coversNL50 — $0.25/$0.50
Buy-ins held there40needs 27
Lifetime risk of ruin1.2%
Over 100,000 hands0.89%always the smaller figure
Win rate this roll needs3.38 bb/100to hit the target at this stake

At 1.2% ruin is unlikely, and moving down a stake during a bad run would make it unlikelier still.

Move up to NL100 — $0.50/$1
$2,703.65
$703.65 to go
Drop to NL25 — $0.10/$0.25
$1,039.04
77% of the requirement

What each size buys you

Buy-insBig blindsRisk of ruinOne career in
101,00033%3
202,00011%9
303,0003.6%28
404,0001.2%84
505,0000.39%255
757,5000.02%4,065
10010,000less than 0.01%64,882

Each extra buy-in multiplies the risk down by the same factor, so the early buy-ins do nearly all the work and the later ones buy comfort.

Every stake on the ladder

StakeNeedsDrop atYour risk
NL2 — $0.01/$0.02$54.07$41.56less than 0.01%
NL5 — $0.02/$0.05$135.18$103.9less than 0.01%
NL10 — $0.05/$0.10$270.37$207.81less than 0.01%
NL25 — $0.10/$0.25$675.91$519.520.01%
NL50 — $0.25/$0.50you are here$1,351.83$1,039.041.2%
NL100 — $0.50/$1$2,703.65$2,078.0811%
NL200 — $1/$2$5,407.3$4,156.1633%
NL500 — $2.50/$5$13,518.25$10,390.464%

The requirement in big blinds is the same at every stake, because a win rate in bb/100 is already a rate per big blind. Only the cash changes. If you expect to beat a bigger game for less, lower the win rate and read the table again.

Next

This page sizes a roll. To log sessions and watch it move, use the bankroll tracker. Your win rate and how sure you can be of it comes from the win rate calculator, the depth of a normal bad run from the downswing calculator, and a few hundred simulated careers from the variance simulator.

Guide

How many buy-ins your bankroll actually needs

Every rule of thumb gives one number, and one number is always wrong for somebody. Thirty buy-ins is generous for a crusher in a soft full-ring game and reckless for a thin winner in five-card PLO. A bankroll depends on three things and nothing else: how much you win, how much the game swings, and how much chance of going broke you will carry.

One formula, read two ways

Treat your profit graph as a random walk with an upward drift: each block of 100 hands adds a draw whose mean is your win rate and whose spread is your standard deviation. The chance such a walk ever falls by the whole bankroll has a closed form.

Risk of ruin = exp(−2 × bankroll × win rate ÷ standard deviation²)

Rearranged, it sizes the roll instead of judging it:

Bankroll = −standard deviation² × ln(target risk) ÷ (2 × win rate)

That is the whole calculator. A player winning 5 bb/100 with a standard deviation of 100 bb/100 who accepts a 5% chance of ruin needs 2,996 big blinds, which at 100 big blinds a buy-in is 30 buy-ins — the famous thirty, derived rather than asserted. Put it back through the first equation and it returns 5.0%. A "unit" is only another word for a buy-in, so the answer reads the same either way.

Two properties worth carrying around

Two consequences matter more than the formula itself. The bankroll is inversely proportional to the win rate, so doubling the win rate halves the roll exactly: 10 bb/100 needs 1,498 big blinds rather than 2,996, or 15 buy-ins against 30. Beating the game better is much the cheapest way to be safe.

And the bankroll goes with the square of the standard deviation, so variance is charged twice. PLO 6-max at 140 bb/100 needs 2.2 times the roll of NLHE 6-max at 95 bb/100, not 1.5times. That is how PLO players go broke: they cross over with a hold'em roll and a hold'em win rate, and the square term eats them.

What each bankroll size actually buys

The same 5 bb/100 winner in NLHE 6-max at 95 bb/100, holding different numbers of buy-ins:

Buy-insBig blindsRisk of ruinOne career in
101,00033%3
202,00011%9
303,0003.6%28
404,0001.2%84
505,0000.39%255
757,5000.02%4,065
10010,000less than 0.01%64,882

Read the shape, not the rows. 10 buy-ins to 30 takes the risk from 33% to 3.6%; 30 to 100 takes it from 3.6% to less than 0.01%. Each extra buy-in divides the risk by a constant factor, so the early buy-ins do nearly all the work and the later ones buy comfort. At 3.6% ruin is unlikely, and moving down a stake during a bad run would make it unlikelier still.

The win rate is the number that matters

At NLHE 6-max variance and a 5% target, the requirement by win rate:

Win rateBig blinds neededBuy-ins
1 bb/10013,518135.2
2 bb/1006,75967.6
3 bb/1004,50645.1
5 bb/1002,70427
7.5 bb/1001,80218
10 bb/1001,35213.5

The top row deserves a second look. A genuine but thin 1 bb/100 wants 135.2 buy-ins, more than almost anybody carries, and a thin win rate is the one you are least sure of. Size the roll on the bottom of your confidence interval rather than the middle; the win rate calculator works out that interval and says how many hands would narrow it.

Standard deviation by game, and why it is only an estimate

Your own standard deviation comes out of your tracking software, and it is the one to trust. The values below are typical observed ranges that players report from tracked samples rather than laws. Each row shows what a 5 bb/100 winner needs at a 5% target.

GameTypical bb/100Observed rangeBuy-ins needed
NLHE full ring (9-max)80758519.2
NLHE 6-max959010027
NLHE heads-up12011013043.1
PLO 6-max14013015058.7
5-card PLO 6-max16015017576.7
Live full ring12011013043.1

NLHE heads-up is high because every hand gets played and nothing is folded in the blinds: 43.1 buy-ins against 27 for six-max. 5-card PLO 6-max has the fewest public samples of anything here, so its range is the widest; assume the top of it.

Choosing a risk you can live with

The target is the only genuinely personal input, because it prices the thing the maths has no view on: what happens to you if the money goes.

TargetRisk of ruinBuy-insWho it is for
Relaxed20%14.5For a player with a job and a deposit button, playing for fun and willing to rebuild.
Standard5.0%27The usual recommendation for somebody serious about the game but not living on it.
Careful1.0%41.6For a player with no easy way to reload, or one who hates the idea of starting again.
Professional0.10%62.3For a player whose rent comes out of this roll, where going broke means finding a job.

Notice how little the careful end costs. Going from 20% to 0.10% cuts the risk by a factor of 200 and multiplies the requirement by only 4.3, because the bankroll depends on the logarithm of the risk rather than on the risk. Safety is on sale.

Moving up, and the more important business of moving down

The requirement in big blinds is the same at every stake, because a win rate in bb/100 is already a rate per big blind. Only the cash changes. A $2,000 roll for our example player covers NL50, where the risk is 1.2%; NL100 wants $2,703.65 and is $703.65 away; and the line at which dropping back to NL25 becomes correct is $1,039.04.

That move-down line sits below the move-up line, at 77% of the requirement, because it is set by a looser risk — 10% rather than 5.0%. One line for both would bounce you between two stakes for weeks during any ordinary downswing.

A career is also shorter than forever. Over 100,000 hands rather than a lifetime, the same 30-buy-in roll runs 4.3% against the 5.0% lifetime figure.

Tournaments and MTTs

Only the ratio of drift to variance matters, so the same arithmetic answers the tournament question with one tournament as the unit of time: ROI is the drift, the deviation in buy-ins per tournament is the spread, and the answer comes out in buy-ins. Guessing that deviation is where most tournament bankroll advice goes wrong, because it can be worked out from a payout structure instead.

StructurePaidTop prizeSD (buy-ins)Buy-ins needed
9-man single table, 50/30/2033.3%4.51.5619
45-runner, 20% paid20%13.52.6352
180-runner, 15% paid15%44.14.44148
1,000-runner, 15% paid15%179.38.03484

The last column assumes a 20% ROI and a 5% target. A 9-man single table, 50/30/20 is the steadiest format there is, at 1.56 buy-ins of deviation and 19 buy-ins of bankroll. The 1,000-runner, 15% paid structure produces 8.03, because the winner collects 179.3 buy-ins and most of the field collects nothing, and it wants 484. The commonly quoted 3 buy-ins, with its range of 2.5 to 3.5, gives only 68, so treat the quoted range as a floor.

Read any tournament answer as a lower bound, because the model treats the swings as symmetric and tournament results are not. ROI is also harder to measure than a cash win rate, which the ROI calculator will show you, and selling action is a legitimate way to shed variance you cannot afford — the staking calculator prices the mark-up.

If you do not beat the game, no bankroll helps

For a break-even or losing player no finite bankroll reaches any target, and this calculator refuses to print one: a walk with no upward drift reaches every level below it sooner or later, zero included. Even 300 buy-ins leaves a player with no edge at 100%. A bigger roll postpones ruin; only an edge prevents it. Move down, where the games are softer and the same money is more buy-ins, and read bankroll management next to the rake comparison — at small stakes the rake is often the whole difference.

What this model assumes

  • Ruin here means losing the whole bankroll while playing the same game at the same stake forever. Nobody does that, and moving down when the roll shrinks cuts the real risk well below the figure.
  • The win rate is treated as known and constant. It is neither, and a win rate measured over a small sample is the largest single source of error in the answer.
  • Each block of hands is assumed to be an independent draw from a normal distribution. Tilt, table selection and games that get tougher as you move up all break that assumption.
  • Withdrawals, rakeback and bonuses are ignored. Taking money out raises the risk, and a regular payout is best modelled by lowering the win rate instead.
  • For tournaments the normal approximation is optimistic, because the results are so one-sided. Treat a tournament answer as a floor.

Where to go from here

This page sizes a bankroll; it does not track one. Logging sessions and letting your real win rate emerge is the job of the bankroll tracker, and the two belong together: track first, then size on your own numbers. For the swings inside a roll that never breaks, the downswing calculator says how deep an ordinary bad run goes and the variance simulator draws a few hundred careers. If the question underneath is whether this adds up to a living, can you make a living playing poker works through the rest of it.

Frequently asked questions

How many buy-ins should your bankroll be?

It depends on your win rate, the variance of your game and the risk you accept, and those three inputs move the answer by a factor of ten. A 5 bb/100 winner with a 100 bb/100 standard deviation needs 2,996 big blinds, or 30 buy-ins, for a 5% risk of ruin. The same player in PLO 6-max needs 58.7 buy-ins, and a 1 bb/100 winner in NLHE 6-max needs 135.2. The thirty-buy-in rule is the middle case, not the rule.

How do you calculate risk of ruin in poker?

Risk of ruin is exp(-2 x bankroll x win rate / standard deviation squared), with the bankroll in big blinds and the win rate and standard deviation both in big blinds per 100 hands. It is the gambler's ruin result for a random walk with upward drift. At 30 buy-ins, a 5 bb/100 winner in a game with a 95 bb/100 standard deviation runs 3.6%, which is about one career in 28.

How big a bankroll do I need for MTTs?

Measured in buy-ins, using ROI as the drift and the standard deviation per tournament as the spread. At a 20% ROI and a 5% target, a 9-man single table, 50/30/20 structure needs 19 buy-ins while a 1,000-runner, 15% paid structure needs 484, because its top prize is 179.3 buy-ins and its deviation is 8.03. Using the commonly quoted 3 buy-ins of deviation gives 68 instead, which is why the familiar hundred-buy-in advice is a floor rather than a comfortable number.

What standard deviation should I use in a bankroll calculator?

Your own, from your tracking software, because it is the only figure that describes the games you actually play. Failing that, typical observed ranges are 90 to 100 bb/100 for NLHE 6-max, 110 to 130 heads-up, 130 to 150 for PLO 6-max and 150 to 175 for five-card PLO. These are observed ranges rather than constants, and because the bankroll depends on the square of the figure, an error here costs more than the same error in the win rate.

Does this work for heads-up and 5-card PLO?

Yes, and the difference is large. The standard deviation is the only input that changes, and the requirement follows its square. At 5 bb/100 and a 5% target, NLHE 6-max asks for 27 buy-ins, NLHE heads-up for 43.1 and 5-card PLO 6-max at 160 bb/100 for 76.7. Pick the preset that matches your game, or better still, type in the figure your own tracker reports.

When should I move down a stake?

When the roll falls to the line set by a looser risk than the one you moved up at. This calculator uses twice the target risk by default, which works out at 77% of the requirement, so a $2,703.65 move-up line for NL100 pairs with a $1,039.04 move-down line back to NL25. One line for both bounces you between stakes during any ordinary downswing. Moving down also cuts your real risk well below the printed figure, because the formula assumes you never do it.

What is the difference between this and a bankroll tracker?

A tracker records what has happened: sessions, hours, profit and the graph. This calculator answers the forward-looking question of how big the roll has to be before you sit down, from your win rate, your variance and the risk you accept. Use the tracker to measure the inputs and this page to turn them into a number of buy-ins.

Can a losing player fix it with a bigger bankroll?

No, and the maths is blunt about it. With no upward drift a random walk reaches every level below it eventually, so ruin is certain given enough hands whatever the starting roll. Even 300 buy-ins leaves a break-even player at 100%. A bigger bankroll buys time; only an edge buys safety, so the first job is to raise the win rate by moving down, fixing a leak or paying less rake.

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